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Summary Barbarian Days ☆ eBook, ePUB or Kindle PDF Africa dell’apartheid dove matura una nuova consapevolezza poi l’inevitabile ritorno a casa Ma la ricerca non è ancora finita Scritto nell’arco di vent’anni e anticipato da un celebre profilo apparso sul «New Yorker» «Giorni selvaggi» è un racconto di avventure e il diario di un’ossessione da cui si sprigiona – per la prima volta in letteratura – il terribile splendore del surf i suoi codici tribali lo studio dei venti la lunga «attesa» dell’onda Che è una ualità dell’essere «una via» per conoscere sé stes. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life is the subtitle than the title that is a surfing life To break it down further it is life than surfing as it follows William Finnegan from youngest years to the present day from continent to continent from schools to jobs from here to eternity Is there a lot of surfing in that life Yes Is there a lot of life maybe too much life in this book Yes againMeaning I felt that 464 pages was a bit much Surprising considering Finnegan is a New Yorker writer that is if you subscribe to the notion that journalists than novelists are likely to stay on point and cut to the narrative bone There are enjoyable descriptions of the ocean and the surfers who like to ride it spread throughout the book There are also lulls where I kept looking deep for incoming swellsAdmittedly I may not be the best judge I have never surfed in my life Thus I came to the book with romanticized notions about surfing and hoped for lyrical passages you d expect from a real writer s writer You know Hemingway Hangs Ten But really it was matter of fact Well written yes Just overwritten content wise In need of the famous editor Maxwell Perkins maybe That said if you are interested in the autobiography of a New Yorker writer whose greatest love has been surfing almost 500 pages worth you ll likely enjoy this journalist s tale At least his life is exciting than most certainly exciting and accomplished than mine Hat s off and hang ten then

Summary Barbarian Days ☆ eBook, ePUB or Kindle PDF Il surf è un’arte dai molti paradossi in cui il desiderio di mostrarsi non è mai separato da uello di essere soli con le onde e sparire dietro un sipario di schiuma «Le onde sono il campo da gioco Il fine ultimo» Ma sono anche l’avversario la nemesi William Finnegan ha subìto l’incanto del mare fin da bambino in California vedendo i surfisti «danzare sull’acua» A tredici anni andrà a vivere ai piedi del cratere di Diamond Head alle Hawaii E uell’incanto si trasformerà a poco a poco in una devozione assoluta al dio oce. I have an ongoing personal Pulitzer challenge that I engage in each year This year was a struggle all the way around but I managed to read six nonfiction winners and one player Next year I am setting the bar higher and will participate in a Pulitzer challenge in the nonfiction Pulitzer group It is not as much of a challenge as a way for me to track my books That aside December is a time where everyone I know is either busy with holiday preparations or rushing to get books read for challenges I selected Barbarian Days A Surfing Life as it is not a lengthy historical tome Rather New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan details his life of surfing both in and out of the water paying homage to the how chasing an endless wave is a metaphor for life Born in 1952 in New York to film editors Bill and Patricia Finnegan at age two William Finnegan found himself on the move to the fledgling film industry in suburban Los Angeles The family eventually grew and Bill Sr was constantly at work on one film or another His work allowed the family to keep a weekend home in coastal Ventura or with friends on Newport Beach By age ten the surf called and William Finnegan was on a board for the first time Growing up in both California and Hawaii Finnegan had many chances to surf on a nearly daily basis His skills improved each year to the point that by the end of high school the waves called his attention so than academia After one year at University of California Santa Cruz Finnegan rejoined his family in Hawaii and the life of a surfer By the time Finnegan reached his mid twenties he has been disillusioned by academia completely Yet he pined for the endless wave and convinced a surfing acuaintance named Bryan Salvatore to embark with him on a two year adventure to the Southern Hemisphere chasing the perfect wave The two traveled to out of the way places as Fiji Samoa a stop in Australia Indonesia and Singapore They surfed waves as Tavarua Fiji that today are known in the surfing community but in the 1970s were virtual unknown Both men got a flare for local life and took up writing eventually leading years later to both writing for surfing and other respectable magazines Salvatore being five years older than Finnegan returned to the United States after two years leaving him at a crossroads The spirit of adventure beckoned than surfing as Finnegan traveled to South Africa where he taught English Europe and eventually home Surfing was always on his mind even if his journeys took him to landlocked countries While not a perpetual beach bum Finnegan had become in his father s words hooked on the barbarian days of youth William Finnegan has written as a staff reporter for the New Yorker for the last thirty years He makes New York his home but embarks in at least one surfing vacation a winter to places like Portugal Fiji Mexico and the Caribbean In each location he hones his journalistic skills by interacting with locals while also chasing the perfect wave This memoir was a change of pace for a Pulitzer winner and is than just about surfing Finnegan discusses the history of the sport human conditions in diverse countries around the globe and surfing as a metaphor for men chasing eternal youth Much has changed since Finnegan first started surfing including better euipment that allow for physically fit people to surf well into middle age Surfing has been for Finnegan like the fountain of youth although at this point he knows his limitations and does not try for the largest wave in the ocean Content with watching his daughter grow into adulthood Finnegan has learned to balance surfing with family life Thinking that Barbarian Days would be about the life of a uintessential California beach bum I had few expectations when I began this book I have found the Pulitzer winners I read to be well written even if the subject matter doesn t necessarily interest me Barbarian Days ended up being about how the baby boom generation has grappled with growing older as well as an overview of the history of surfing and a uasi travelogue If anything it has made me pine for the beach in the middle of winter and has me eager to read Pulitzer winners in the year to come 4 stars

William Finnegan ✓ 8 review

Summary Barbarian Days ☆ eBook, ePUB or Kindle PDF Ano A venticinue anni il suo sogno è di rigenerarsi agli Antipodi e vedere il mondo prima che si trasformi tutto in Los Angeles Inizia così «la ricerca» il viaggio dell’Inverno senza fine la circumnavigazione del globo a caccia di onde Prima Guam poi le isole Samoa il regno di Tonga l’arcipelago delle Figi dove scopre il magnifico break di Tavarua davanti a un lembo di terra assente perfino dalle mappe Al suo fianco c’è Bryan che è andato al funerale di Kerouac e fa surf «come se non ci fosse un domani» Ultima tappa il Sud. William Finnegan has a sultry pleasant voice His voice alone was alluringI enjoyed listening to the never ending surfing stories as I might a guided meditationBUTlike meditationI often drifted into ozo land taking detours away from the spiritual path I didn t have the endurance to keep up with the Zen of Surfing God William Finnegan is a phenomenal writer blows my mind a surfer could be so lyrical and descriptive BUT THERE IS NO LET UP Very impressive ongoing ongoing and ongoing specific detail descriptions of Everything Surfing The oceana surfboardwavespaddlingcompetitionssurfers obsessions surfers addictions a surfing life William s stories about his childhood living in Los Angles then Hawaii his family his personal self worth growing up his body concerns of being smaller and too thin as a young white boy living in Hawaii his parents siblings his school days friends girls books almost as important to him as surfing his relationship with surfing from early beginning days to advance were all interestingBUTWhen he describes in details wave patterns I felt like he was speaking a foreign language Lots of surfing jargon SOME of it is BEAUTIFUL to listen toANDSOME of it becomes overwhelming nap time The end BUTI LIKED THIS VERY WARM SWEET NATURED MAN I LIKED HIS COMPASSIONI LIKED THAT IS WAS SMART AS A WHIPGod no I wasn t awake all 18 hours of surfing storytimebut I liked MUCH of it Our younger daughter Ali grew up surfing in Santa Cruz Ha she cut her first period class in HS a little too often because she was busy catching the waves before sunrise I was suppose to write her notes that said was at the dentist twice a week Haha 37 38 rounding up to 4 stars